Long Run — the journey within

A day after the long trail run I have this beautiful feeling — my mind is almost silent. The morning rush is absent — and I am taking things one by one. All that is apparent to the eyes seem beautiful as just they are. What a blessing to wake up to this serene feeling!

As I reflect upon the big run last Saturday I am grateful I still have the lingering reminiscence of the magical moments. Though it was a challenging one the long trail run was fulfilling in ways I am immensely grateful for.

After the start in Swayambhunath Stupa it was a nice warm up climb up to the Nagarjun Hilltop or Jamacho Gumba. I was in good company of legends (at least to me) Rakesh, Rajesh Dai and Nayan with light-hearted jovial conversations. The trail winded down gradually to Mudkhu Bhanjyang. It was fun speeding down the winding trails — that section was absolute blast and fun. I had few moments of drifting behind Rakesh. It didn’t take long before we took a little break at Mudkhu Check Point.

I was quite hungry, and was dreaming of light snack of savoury chickpea ‘Chana’ and an egg. Water refill took a while longer than anticipated, and I felt the rush to carry on rather than being left behind my peloton. Rakesh was kind enough to wait as I trying hard to fix my hydration vest with cold and numb fingers.

I did manage to grab an egg, an energy bar, few pieces of apple and a banana. Someone had dropped an energy bar on the immediate climb, I took it as a lucky find. I was on my home turf — where I train at least once a week through this section until Jitpur Phedi and the famous Tinpiple crossing via Mudkhu View Tower.

After a slow and gradual climb of stairs to Bhubaneshwori Temple we were at Panch Mane Bhanjyang. I had an egg, and a bite of the energy bar. Burst of flavours from the bar were exploding like some kind of magic inside my mouth.

The gradual heat and lack of salt slowly caught up as I was trying hard to keep up with my peloton. The entry into the jungle after Panch Mane followed gradual climb with visiting pilgrims to the famous Tarakeshwor Mahadev Temple. The trail after the temple was almost quiet, no more pilgrims. My peloton left me as I had slowed down. It was nice to briefly catch up with Prayash mountain biking from the opposite direction.

I had been intrigued by this section of the trail — kind of aloof though right next to the valley below. Ambient nature with sounds and smell of a warming day — it reminded me of being in remote nature. It is a slight eerie feeling in a nice way, the sweet smell of pines and the raw nature against a bright day. 

My stomach was not feeling that great. I was preoccupied with thoughts, I also had moments where I was calm and enjoying the solitude. Somehow I had the confidence to carry on. I knew I had to keep walking while my stomach recuperated and the feeling of puking went away. I walked most of the route from there until Gurje Bhanjyang Check Point and Danda Gaun Check Point.

While few fellow runners cross past me, it was tempting to catch up. I simply did not. I ran when I could, and in a slow pace with focus on my breathing. This was a very difficult meditation under those circumstances — I am thankful I didn’t let my inhibitions get better of me.

I was super happy to find savoury mixed bean soup at Danda Gaun Check Point. I sat for a few minutes, the soup helped regain some strength. It was a mix of run and walk then onwards.

After eight and a half hours and on the trail and 55 kilometers I crossed the finishing line in Boudhanath Stupa ending this year’s Stupa to Stupa Trail Run.

This is an amazing mix of feelings intertwined together — bright and beautiful nature, sweet smell of pines in the crisp air against the bright blue sky versus the apprehensions of one’s strength, struggle to keep up and the feeling of loosing trail sometimes. The overall feeling of enjoying both and somehow feeling sure about the run that I am on — no matter what or how difficult it is at some of those trying moments — the amazing grace of being able to accept it all and carry on with a faith that I will make it through is a bliss.

The heightened sensitivity and micro observations pop up here and there through the moments on this long run. Being able to see one’s strength gains, and the ones that need attention. I was sharing this with fellow runner Nayan past Kapan downhill section — that how beautiful it is to be able to have this opportunity to observe such details — to tune in to one’s body rhythm. That the body somehow guides us on this journey in a magical way — that we are able to see past our noisy minds and weaknesses.

Somehow after the long run I feel kind of settled and at peace. I feel blessed with this abundance and beauty of the flow — the flow as juxtaposed by breathing and being present. Breathing via this pious temple of the physical body without which this experience would not have been possible. It is a feeling of certitude that grace will always bless us. May this blessing bless us all — to accept everything in this run of life.

Swayambhunath Stupa

Boudhanath Stupa

Dolpo Trek II

16 July 2019, Tuesday, Yak Kharka

Somehow the walk from Temche to Yak Kharka seems to be one of the most beautiful treats of the trek.

The valley, immensely beautifully, is carved by gently sloping mountains from two sides, the rivers converging down at Temche – and the start of meadows, some signs of civilization and the view that extends further down the valley of green expanse, river and waterfalls from mountains.

Looking at the mountains – studying the rock formation, following the contours, layers and shape of the mountains – the visual accessibility from their base, the low hanging clouds – this is simply out of the world. Never have I been in such mesmerising beauty in the untouched nature.

As we climb down from the snaky path down to Temche there is seemingly a bus-like rocky mountain on the right. As I go further down, this rocky mountain looks like a bus or rather a space ship, as though it has been there for eternity, and could lift off any moment. The seemingly inanimate land formation is animated.

And there, on some rocky mountains, I see beautiful waterfalls. On one instance, this soft silky water falls between two tapering and slightly slanted mountains. Like some sci-fi structures in-the-waiting.

Why? Why are these perfectly natural geological objects giving me such eccentric feelings? Perhaps, I think to myself, I have never seen and experienced such beautiful splendour ever before. Or, had the slightest clue to what Dolpo Trek would offer.

In the other instance, water sprouts out from a rocky facade like the mountain is throwing up. As though through inner streams and tunnels the water oozes out suddenly like a soft water cannon. The waterfall merges into the river down below.


The valley continues, with green meadow expanse and river cutting right through the gorges. We follow the river, walk quite a bit into the valley. It seems like it would take forever to pass that sloping ridge below in the distant horizon before it opens up new vistas. The path is visible like a serpentine guide below the base of the mountains on the right. The river is further left below the gorges.

And wow, light turquoise bluish water. I see through the water, as though the cleanest and most pure river I have seen.

We arrive Yak Kharka. We have walked the green meadows. Little flowers carpet the green meadow occasionally. I watch out not to tramp, can’t help it as it is all over. The nature inspires me immensely and I feel these beautiful flowers greet us – to welcome us into this beautiful valley and nature. Close to Yak Kharka, past the sloping ridge that has opened into this wide meadow of Yak Kharka, we spot Marmots. Beautiful and shy, they hide into the bushes or their burrows. There are many such burrows all over the green meadow floor. Some openly visible and some slightly hidden by the rocks and bushes.

We are happy to spot our campsite. There are black Naks around – beautiful and full of grace. Rest of our team have arrived. Everyone is delighted and happy after this long descending walk. We have crossed two passes – the Numa La at 5309 meters and the Baga La at 5169 meters in succession. Phew, surely I have conquered some high mountains within.


Today I had a very amazing and wonderful experience climbing up to the Baga La Pass. I was behind the lead Kedar – one of the kitchen crews and porter. It was a slow uphill. As I was climbing, at some point, it was just my breath and me. This was meditative – as though I found my ‘Now’ there. It didn’t matter – the hardship, the small steps, who was ahead or behind. I was in the ‘Now’ and I felt blessed.

This experience somehow started in when we were doing the Numa La Pass yesterday. This one was more difficult and steep. The final attack from the last stop just before the pass – I was flooded with thoughts. So many imaginations were pouring in. Then at one moment I thought ‘Why?’ ‘But why?’

Then it happened – just me and my breath.



I was the third to summit the Numa La Pass, and second on the Baga La Pass.



Yesterday, the arrival at Danigar Base Camp was sort of magical. I remember Danigar a bright sighting for the wet and tiring long walk. It was drizzling. I was partially wet like everybody else. I was cold and hungry. And angry because there was no space to find cover in the tent. While closing in on the camping site, past that final turn, Danigar revealed like a paradise place between two converging meadow mountains. The river curving through the two mountains, and campsite by the river on a little stony grass patch. The river snaked gently, slow and easy, with a bright aura high up there at confluence of the two mountains where the river must have started. It was the next morning that I saw another higher mountain right above the confluence where I had imagined the river had originated.

It had been a crazy walk going steep down the Numa La Pass. The excitement of the pass gradually shadowed by the never ending steep and tiring descend. In a matter of first ten minutes or so I started to feel my knees. I was running down in excitement, and it was my knees that reminded me to take it slow.


We spotted Blue Sheep herd just after the Numa La Pass. There were on the right ridge – on the barren cliff mountain high up at almost 5000 meters. There were quite a few of them with a little kid as well.

Dolpo Trek

17 July 2019, Wednesday
Phoksumdo Lake

Dearest Suravi,
It was so nice talking to you and Mamu earlier. It felt good to hear your voice, and that you were expecting to see me, Phupu and Phupa after our Dolpo Trek.

I woke up at 05:33 am today in Yak Kharka. It was a beautiful morning – no more clouds or grey weather. Some low hanging fog, but blue sky. The sun came out slow and nice - lighting the blue sky, then the snow clad mountain top, and gradually the hill-tops and mountain-tops forming the Yak Kharka Valley. Phupu and I sat down waiting for the sun to illuminate us. This was the beginning of the magical journey today.

Everybody is really happy today. The pristine blue sky with some white clouds, the green meadow expanse, the beautiful morning after all the past grey weather, wet days and nights.
We started the walk to Phoksumdo Lake after a relaxed and easy breakfast. Something was magical today – everything felt so good. The sight, the place, the valley, the meadows, the mountains, the serene light turquoise river, the path, the bushes we passed through were all a delight. I was melancholic, and I was thinking and feeling about You and Mamu – missing you both. You both would have enjoyed all this as much.

It was a melancholy I wanted to last. I wanted this feeling to be there – somehow I felt so good, so very good. It was, how do I describe, like the most beautiful place and moment to be in. My heart was crying, the ambient beauty and moment I had found myself in. The raw and blissful nature – I felt a strong connection to – like I never want to let go. I want to capture this and take it with me. To present You and Mamu with this wonderful gift of Dolpo Trek, and specially the last two days of mesmerising in absolute nature.

Mingmar said, if only we would have had clear and sunny day like today at the passes – Numa La and Baga La. I replied, I am actually very grateful for today and this moment. We can never be satisfied as human wishes are manifold. Today I felt just as complete and satisfied – this was one of the best moments of the trip. And I am really grateful for this day and the moment. I felt we understood each other, somehow we were on same plane of thoughts and feelings.

Photographs © Shivendra Shah